A Sack Lunch at Oakland's Lunch Box
A good sandwich, for those of us who still consume the small luxury that is fresh glutinous bread, may make the ideal lunch, with its portability, blank slate for customization, and broad appeal — whether it is made fresh, sliced, and consumed immediately; or toasted and arranged with care to then be wrapped, carried, and later peeled open like a present, a trace of intoxicating scent slipping out until the time is right to shred the wrapping and dig in.
Big bites are often important. You want to get the whole breadth of the ingredients, the bread top-to-bottom, each texture and pop of acidity or sweetness or smoke already enveloped and balanced by the layer above or below. Sometimes a nibble to even the shape out or taste one or two bits at alone, here and there. But in all, I believe a sandwich should be made and consumed Dagwood or Jughead style — more layers of flavor than you can count, requiring a loosened jaw and voracious appetite.
To my knowledge the Bay Area is far from overrunneth with delis or sandwich shops, and so I am always happy to try anywhere that is not a chain and/or has maintained a loyal customer base. Opened in 2001, as the outdoor banners boast, The Lunch Box is a family-owned deli that “strive[s] to be the healthy alternative to a typical downtown deli.” I think they are successful at that.
Raised an East Coaster and having spent time in Italy, I have strong (opinions, and) memories of Italian delis with cases brimming with juicy, tart, flavorful toppings. So while a number of such options are available here, overall this fell a bit flat. The written toppings and extras were scattered across the menu board, making it difficult for me to concentrate or streamline them into my ideal sandwich. Maybe I just need to see them all laid out in front of me behind glass.
The small space had plenty of beverage choices in the fridges and a mini-corner store of chips and candies on offer, along with the empty boxes and cramped feeling of one. Ordering was quick and friendly, and as everything was served to-go. The POS does not include an iPad. There was not an obvious way to tip via credit card, making our meal, two sandwiches and sparkling waters, under $34. For a house-made pork sandwich this feels like a great deal; for a veggie one, less so.
Regardless, giving the establishment the benefit of the doubt, I ordered the veggie sandwich pretty much as is, with “everything” on it — only to find out that “everything” meant some lettuce and a thin slice of wan tomato. In the heat of August, tomatoes should be bursting: quite literally with their juices painting your face, the walls near you, a friend’s eye, as well a with so much sweet and umami flavor and juicy texture to foil the dryer, more bitter or chewy or creamy ingredients. They should be an experience in and of themselves, with outfit-and-storebought-tomato-ruining potential or omitted entirely. There was no reason for the pale, sickly cousins in this season. Give me color or give me less.
My friend Simone ordered the pulled pork, also with “everything,” and was wise enough to request the free pickles tossed on there too.
The subs (can I call them that?) were hefty, brimming with bright green lettuce and toasted but still soft and squishy fresh bread. Simone had chosen Dutch Crunch, a Bay classic with a semi-sweet crackle glaze on top, and I the seeded sour roll. I can’t say it tasted much sour — it had perhaps even a touch of sweet. But it was a good roll, toasted just enough to give it depth of flavor and structural integrity but not so much as to dry it out or rough up my mouth.
I was struck by the relatively small number of ingredients used in my sandwich — lettuce, tomato, avocado, carrot, cucumber, cheese, and mayo, as well as an olive and garlic tapenade I had added. The swirl of veggies was aesthetically pleasing, but again, hinted at what might be missing.
The lettuce crunched, the bread tore off with just enough fight, and the shaved carrot and cucumber provided lovely crunch and juiciness. The bit of maybe seasoned mayo and definitely unseasoned avocado offered necessary lubrication, but I found myself wishing the greens, or even the whole sandwich, had been dressed. Oh, and the tomato. No further explanation necessary; we know where I stand.
Simone’s pork was not just a better bang for our buck, but a more thoughtfully constructed dish that, naturally, benefitted from the large serving of super moist, flavor-packed protein, elements my sandwich lacked. The raw red onion and sliced pickles offset that richness and the sweetness of the bun, and it was quite a decent portion.
We both wrapped the second halves of our sandwiches for later. It was too hot in the full sun of their small picnic table out front. And I planned to doctor my half-sandwich upon return home.
We left agreeing we were underwhelmed, but also that we would definitely return to try other offerings, the eggplant sandwich in particular. I also feel confident that armed with the knowledge that I am the master of my sandwich and thusly must order accordingly, I can and will co-create an flavorfully explosive, not-at-all-dry, and far-too-full vegetable sandwich of my dreams at The Lunch Box.
1720 Franklin St, Oakland CA
Mon-Fri 10 – 3:30
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Sit down/table service N
Outdoor seating Y
Takeout Y
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Ready to go options/cafeteria style N
Less than 15 min wait Y
Under $20 w/tax and tip Y
Many options under $20 Y Everything!
More than 1 veg option Y
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Open weekdays Y
Open weekends Saturday N/Sunday N
Open Mondays Y
Bart-able Y
