Ratto’s Deli
821 Washington St.
Oakland
Surrounded by other locally owned shops and restaurants, Ratto’s charm lies in the understated, no-frills-but-all-quality take on the Italian-American deli.
A fourth-generation family-owned Italian deli and international grocery store, Ratto’s may seem out of place on a quiet but sunny block of Washington Street in Old Oakland with its wide awning and surprisingly expansive interior, the plate glass windows protecting the brightness and airiness from unsuspecting passersby.
As one such passerby myself, I finally stopped in to check out what this deli was all about. I delighted in the coziness and breadth of the offerings, as well as the bright lighting and spaciousness. Priced between $8 and $13.25, the sandwiches on offer are a midday dream: large enough to satisfy but petite enough to prevent the need for a nap.
Rather than building my own (a good option), I chose to sample two of their specials: the Classic Veggie with Artichoke with added provolone, a cold “signature” sandwich; and the Ratatouille, a hot pressed option. I then browsed the beverage fridges and wall of imported pantry items (fun pastas, sauces, panettone). The deli is stocked with plenty of cheeses and meats as well as a few prepared items, with all available for purchase by the pound as well as in sandwiches — a cheese counter well worth a revisit.
A few short minutes later I was handed the paper-wrapped goods and got to work. I began with the ratatouille, thinking it best to attack while still hot. It proved warm and satisfying. The pressed bread was light and crispy on the outside with no toughness or tooth-shattering crack, just a gentle snap with each bite. The green pepper was the dominant flavor, with the sweet tomato sauce and creamy feta to offset. The arugula provided a necessary freshness, the leaves a pleasant foil to the richness of the rest of the filling, though lacking in much real flavor. (It is January, I know.) The warmth of the vegetables and gentle crackle of the bread made for a satisfying sandwich, even if I would pull back a bit on the peppers.
The classic veggie, occupying the opposite end of the sandwich spectrum, was a nice idea but did not quite work for me. Having set it aside originally, I was surprised to find the bread already falling apart upon opening, the soft untoasted slices melting before my eyes. That being my main gripe, the fillings were super fresh and juicy, with plenty of avocado, flavor-packed pepperoncini, and tangy artichoke hearts. Their freshness was part of the issue, though, causing that deterioration of bread and making for a difficult eat. The soft slices could hardly contain the firm and moist fillings, making a bit of a mess.
But for $9, can I complain? I think not. A light toast of the bread and reduction of lettuce or tomato might just do the trick, and with a host of other options, your ideal sandwich may just be lying in wait.
Ratto’s is open Mondays through Fridays from 8 a.m. to 3:15 p.m. and Saturdays from 8:30 a.m. to 3:15 p.m.
