Shawarmaji
2123 Franklin St.
Oakland
Is a pickle truly a pickle if it hasn’t been (fermented and) brined? Technically no, but the acid-pink pickled turnip spears sitting atop the small plastic box of veggies and then diced on the house salad at Uptown Oakland’s Shawarmaji were nonetheless a delight. And a highlight of the meal for me, an often unsatisfied vegetarian.
Nestled on a quiet block of Franklin Street but around the corner from bustling hubs such as the 19th St. BART station, corporate headquarters of tech and old school companies alike, The Paramount Theater, and some of Grand Ave’s nightlife scene, Shawarmaji has an understated façade. The interior space is bright and fast casual, with a limited menu and two small cases of drinks and take-away salads by the counter.
My friend and I ordered and found a seat with our pickles and aforementioned turnips, plastic water cups, and tahini salad. The tahini salad caught us both off guard: It was light and creamy but not thick, with the dressing coating the diced tomatoes and cukes lightly without obliterating them. Just salty enough to satiate, with nice crunch from the cucumbers and bright but not acidic balance in the back. Not complex, but darn good. I found myself going back for more throughout the meal, and put some on nearly every bite of my falafel.
What I really missed out on was the toum, a luscious and creamy, but vegan, garlic-based spread and a star of the restaurant. A life-long garlic head, I spied a stack of bags of peeled garlic en route to the restroom (side note: this ain’t no American restaurant — TP out of sight and bidet at the ready!) and got excited for my order, then promptly forgot to inquire as to whether or not my falafel wrap would contain the toum. It did not. And it, and I, suffered the consequences, with an uninspiring and pretty dry cylinder of food. The addition of tahini salad, in the same manner I doctor my burritos with a hefty slug of salsa each bite, brought a much-needed juiciness. But without the bite of onion or garlic, a spicy kick of any kind, or a thicker creamy spread, it left me wanting. Not unhappy — I finished it, trust — but the lack of distinction of textures, flavors, crispness of the fried edges or browned chew of the bread, will keep me from returning for more.
Chris reported that their chicken shawarma, however, was delicious, juicy, flavorful, and the longest wrap I have seen in some time. As the chef/owner Mohammad Abutaha calls them, the “missile-style” behemoth is a sight to behold, and looks good enough to eat :)
Our final dish was the house salad, an unassuming but fresh box of baby kale greens topped with shaved cabbage, cherry tomatoes, and diced pickles. The sumac pomegranate dressing, a once tart and tangy without the usual wincing aftereffects. Its light brown color covered the brilliant hues of those two ingredients, but did nothing to dull their shine flavor-wise. I would have loved something toasted to contrast the rawness but overall was very happy, and would put that dressing on any salad, any time.
The super quick service, bright wall art, and simple offerings make Shawarmaji a great lunch or dinner-on-the-go option for those who eat said shawarma or don’t care about their falafel too much. And next time I’m nearby, I will be sure to stop in for fries with their toum.
Open Daily 11 – 9
All meats are Halal
