Notes of Marrakesh
315 S. Trenton Ave.
Tulsa
August 24, 2024
The façades of Trenton Avenue’s 300 block, particularly on the east side — home to Maples 918 Tacos & Cantina, Adorn Designs, Cody Mayo Studios, and Hummingbird Fine Craft — are pretty subtle. So subtle, apparently, that it’s not uncommon for folks aiming for Maples to unknowingly stumble into Studio Row’s newest addition, Notes of Marrekesh. And sometimes they stay, as I heard owner Sovana Benis tell one early-afternoon customer last Saturday.
My trip was purposeful, but I see why the accidental diner might stick around. Behind the counter are baskets of avocados, a striking assortment of teapots, a colorful fireside bellows, and what appear to be small percussion and string instruments. Lining the bar are several cone-shaped cooking vessels, called tagines (or tajines), a North African culinary staple (you might’ve heard of the stew dish named after the enchanting pan). While the aromas in the space weren’t aggressive, they were noticeable — hints of black pepper, turmeric, maybe cinnamon, plus a touch of something sweet.
Shortly after I bellied up to the bar, a server brought me the menu, a glossy, vibrant eight-page volume. Breakfast is served all day, so a late brunch was my plan, ensuring both morning and midday eats would appeal to my senses. I wanted to try everything. I started with the fig toast and an avocado almond smoothie. The beverage was tasty, nutritious and a nice start to the meal, but the toast bewitched me: a toasted olive bread topped with avocado, arugula, thinly sliced figs, walnuts, goat cheese, and oil and vinegar. Seemingly simple, but it was a perfect blend of tastes and textures: some crunch, some chew, some light and sweet, some hearty. I made myself save half for later so I’d have room for the lunch portion of the meal, the harira soup with lentils and chickpeas.
The soup brought all the warmth, comfort, and familiarity of a chili — but with a twist. Julienned dates graced the bowl for a balanced sweet heat. The server explained that the dish was popular in the colder months in Morocco, but I had no regrets ordering it in the sweltering Tulsa summer. I finished my bowl, even though I was full to bursting.
When I got a chance to speak with Benis, I asked her what she recommend I take my partner to go, mentioning he was interested in the chicken with prunes. “Well, you should get him what he’s interested in,” she jumped in, smiling. A chef confident in her menu. I did just that, plus asked for some cream cheese cigars and lambs in a blanket to boot — all of which I tried back at home within the hour, and all of which were delicious. The pastries were both flaky and substantial, simple but done right. The chicken was baked to succulence, all cozied up in a toasty, savory broth and topped with both prunes and apricots. The magic to all these entrees: the addition of stone fruits for just a touch of sweetness.
To my knowledge, Notes of Marrakesh is the only Moroccan restaurant in town. Before the recent opening of the brick-and-mortar location, Benis briefly owned and operated a food truck, Drive-Thru Marrakesh, which gained her some early followers. Browse food groups in Tulsa and you’ll find several posts about the drive-thru and, now, the storefront. More often than not, you’ll see Benis mentioned by name, praised for her warmth and the care she puts into the food. The day I visited the restaurant, it seemed to be just her and the server on staff. It’s a small operation doing wonderful (and necessary) work in Tulsa. Don’t expect fast food, but do look forward to a varied menu, all fresh, healthy, and satisfying. Order a beverage and a pastry to start if you need an immediate fix.
And take the opportunity to chat with Benis if you get it. Tulsa’s newest food celebrity is all grace, no ego, and she’s nurturing an atmosphere of sweet heartiness in this recently revitalized district.
