Brenda’s
4045 Broadway St.
Oakland CA
Brenda’s, a new New Orleans kitchen (as in new food, not new restaurant) in Oakland, offers the expected Southern charm and disposition and saucy dishes. The owner, the eponymous Brenda, is from New Orleans and of Filipino descent. She has imbued her slice of the bay with some good Bayou flavor and offers “comfort for the soul.”
Always curious about a good sandwich and Cali takes on various cuisines, I wanted to share this meal with my friend Jasmine, whose family has NOLA roots. Something of a crawfish connoisseur, she’d make a good sounding board for my coastal palate.
Signage around the restaurant warned, rather joyfully, to “be nice or leave!” The one above the kitchen was painted by Dr. Bob, a known quantity down South, according to Jasmine.
We settled in to our table and rapidly decided we must try the molasses black walnut iced coffee. It arrived topped with a more-than-healthy swirl of whipped cream, and was bonkers good. Just edging on too sweet for both our tastes without crossing that line, a true slam dunk. The coffee was deep and smooth, with no hint of bitterness but still a depth from the molasses. The thick cream and subtle walnut flavor left us sucking the final dregs, wishing for more. (It’s pictured at the top of this review, in front of a huge vintage-style produce advert, which I’m a huge sucker for at any size.)
We shared a biscuit, succotash, and a side of spinach. Jasmie ordered the shrimp and grits while I opted for the bumper crop, one of three vegetarian po’ boys on offer.
The biscuit was mile-high and steaming hot, just the right level of salty and flaky and served with homemade jam. We dug straight in.
The succotash was a surprise hit. The lima beans, arguably the least appealing part and rarely of interest to me despite being a big ole bean lover, were soft and creamy with a hint of vegetal taste and none of the grit or strange funky flavor I usually associate with them. The corn kernels were sweet and juicy, the peppers, tomatoes, and squash all tender but not mushy.
The spinach too was an underdog hard hitter. It was pooled in a watery garlicky broth we literally drank after finishing the solids. The leaves were just barely cooked — wilted to submission and a rich dark green but still firm enough to retain all shape and a bit of bite. Perfectly seasoned with garlic and salt, we each would have have a plate full.
The shrimp and grits were plated beautifully. They were also juicy and tender, with enough bugs to satisfy without feeling like the dish was overloaded. I tasted the super cheesy grits and loved them, with a bit of chew to the corn but a creamy texture achieved through slow cooking, not just copious quantities of dairy.
My po’ boy was far fatter than I anticipated, though I did manage to eat full bites after the first few. The toasted French roll was lined with spiced vegan remoulade, lettuce, pickle rounds, and tomato, and then piled high with battered and fried okra, cauliflower, yams, and onions. At $13.25 it was the best and best value sandwich I have had the pleasure of consuming lately. The fried veggies were so tender and juicy, the freshness of the lettuce and tomato (and pickles, though I’m a die-hard dill/sour kinda Jew, the sweetness of the bread-and-butter style not really doing it for me) all encapsulated in good soft bread that managed to maintain its integrity until the final bites.
And yes, I did finish it.
I’d opted for the side of cole slaw in place of potato salad and think I made the wrong call, as it was mayo based and overall just too creamy and bland for my vinegary taste buds. I put a bunch on the po’ boy for the crunch and freshness. While it was far from bad, it did not add what I was looking for.
The restaurant serves an extensive breakfast and brunch menu, along with the necessary (but inventive!) beignets; I look forward to returning for more. The homey atmosphere and solid cooking are a boon to the bay, and while I do not anticipate trying to brave a weekend brunch, perhaps another weekday I’ll arrive just a bit earlier.
Brenda’s is located at the corner of Broadway and 41st St. in Oakland, and is open daily from 8 a.m.-8 p.m.
