Phő Húóng Quê
200 International Blvd.
Oakland
Beloved neighborhood restaurant Phő Húóng Quê lies just a block from the edge of Lake Merritt, their unassuming, fast-weathered signage no signifier of what lies inside. The singular room, open and bright, and small parking lot-facing patio serve hungry patrons six days a week with health portions from a menu boasting over 100 dishes, including a full two-page spread of vegetarian options chock full of fake meats.
The menu’s choices left me dizzy not to mention hungrier than when I had arrived. Recalling the fake meats of my youth (kosher, vegetarian Chinese restaurants strewn across the East Coast), I eagerly jumped in, ordering entirely too much food for one mouth. Oops.
First up, and I mean fewer than five minutes after placing my order, were the vegan drumsticks, a real treat for this plant-fueled fried food lover. One can eat only so many French fries; sometimes you need a fried wheat product in its place. Beneath an uber-crunchy breaded exterior cooked to a deep golden brown, the “flesh” was chewy and umami, not too dry, and, perhaps most importantly for me, not too meaty. Served with a vibrant red, slightly gelatinous and lightly sweet dipping sauce, the drumsticks were precisely as they should be. I love seitan, and these were a delightful entree into the meal; I had to stop myself from eating more than a couple to save room for the rest.
Next up the spring rolls, a dish simultaneously difficult to ruin or to knock out of the park. Fresh, well filled but not over full, with a great ratio of greens to cooked carbs, these had bright mint to cool and enliven and a lovely sesame-hinted vinegar dipping sauce that I could have drunk. The rice paper wrappers, soft enough to give way without a fight, managed to avoid the kind of gumminess that clings to teeth, a kiss of death for otherwise tasty versions of the roll.
Some sips of a sweet green smoothie to wash things down. But no, not the kind of green smoothie you are thinking of. No health drinks here: a creamy avocado number, with no vegetables in sight. Given the diameter of the straw and height beneath its plastic dome lid, I knew before tasting that this was a fluffy, thick drink, and was rewarded with a mouth full of refreshing flavor. I could taste the light vegetal hint of avocado, and enjoyed the cooling sensation it offered. (I did wish for a bit more of that flavor.) It made for a nice, blank backdrop to the meal, but as I hadn’t ordered any truly major flavors or spice, it kind of faded into the background, even as I finished sipping on my walk after eating.
Lastly, a honker of combo plate, with the promised faux meats: Vegetarian Pork, Beef, Shredded Pork Skin, Egg Roll Over Rice. The rice, sticky enough to dip in the accompanying sauce, still had a nice tooth to it, and side wedge of iceberg lettuce, shredded carrot and radish, and slice of cucumber made for an unexpectedly good vehicle for small, bite-sized wraps. The lettuce’s watery crunch and the lightly pickled root veggies lent much needed fresh juiciness to the fake meats, both of which were slightly sweet to my palate. The “beef” slices, thin, chewy, and the density and moisture level I would imagine tripe might be if sliced similarly, and left a mild herbal aftertaste. The “skin,” quite red and crackly, was cut in dry strips, a strange textural experience. I made bites wrapped in iceberg and filled with the fried vermicelli also on the plate, topped with the meats, cramming as many kinds of crunch and chew into each as I could.
The crowning jewel of that plate was the egg roll. As with its fresh cousin, I find most iterations at least passable, but a good one a far harder ask. This egg roll featured perfectly a golden, perfectly flaky wrapper. It came off in huge shards rather than shattering everywhere, and contained earthy minced mushrooms and shredded carrots along with more vermicelli. No excess moisture nor a dry spot in sight, just a super pleasant medley of crunch, chew, umami, and acid. One was enough in this context, but boy would I ever ruin my appetite on a plateful.
Can’t wait to return on a cooler day for the pho, and more golden fried goodness, too.
Phő Húóng Quê is open Thursday-Tuesday, 9:30 am‑8 pm
