Afrofuturism in Costume Design
Ruth E. Carter
National tour
Through March 31, 2024
Ruth E. Carter: Afrofuturism in Costume Design, a colorful and informative touring exhibit of outfits designed to transport viewers back into the midst of some of the most popular movies over the past 30 years, mesmerized attendees at its recently-concluded four-month stop at Raleigh’s North Carolina Museum of Art before its current stop in Detroit. Carter’s ability to transform materials and fabrics into visually striking pieces generates a deeper appreciation for the art of costume design.
Academy Award-winning Carter’s three-decade career as a designer features iconic pieces that touch on themes of race, politics, and culture. Her expansive talent is seen in stories that depict and explore the black experience in films like Dolemite is My Name and Coming to America 2, starring Eddie Murphy; Spike Lee movies like Crooklyn and Malcolm X; Amistad, and the TV remake of Roots. She’s designed costumes for the hit Paramount TV series Yellowstone featuring Kevin Costner and the Primetime Emmy Award winning mini-series Cosmos: Possible Worlds starring Neil deGrasse Tyson.
Out of the 60 outfits on display in the exhibit, each proved to be a dazzling attraction, brought to life by the actors who wore them. The familiar outfits ranged from the all-black and leather suit Samuel L. Jackson wore in Shaft to the instantly recognizable white “Bed-Stuy or Do or Die” tee paired with the iconic “Love-Hate” knuckle rings, camo shorts and Air Jordan Revolutions worn by Bill Nunn (Radio Raheem) in Do the Right Thing, or the intricately designed and brightly colored outfits in worn by Chadwick Boseman, Lupita Nyong’o, and Angela Bassett in Marvel’s Black Panther and Black Panther: Wakanda Forever, which are two of franchises highest-grossing films. The costumes in the latter films ooze elements of Afrofuturism, which blend black history or culture with science fiction themes, although the many outfits on display go well beyond any one genre.
Description plaques were located next to each display, categorized by the film or TV series they were featured in. They described the materials and fabrics used, how they were manipulated, and an explanation as to why Carter chose them. It was clear from the time, effort, and skill required for their creation that these weren’t just clothes; they were art. The costumes were so distinctive to the eye, that up close they reminded viewers of certain times in their lives. They took us back to the moment we watched a movie for the first time or caused us to relive emotions felt when a significant event happened. It was easy for viewers to once again get lost in the belly of story. On the other hand, displays brought up painful reminders of heartbreaking times in history.
One event that is still deeply felt is the 16th Street Baptist Church Bombing in Birmingham, Alabama, in 1969. Its impact was reflected in the opening scene of the movie Selma. It begins with the explosion that killed four young girls. Carter used silk taffeta and cotton for the actresses’ dresses and added several bows, ruffles, and flowers to express the girls’ innocence. The names of the girls killed in the bombing were also listed: Addie Mae Collins, Carol Denise McNair, Carole Rosamond Robertson, and Cynthia Dionne Wesley; and Sarah Collins Rudolph, who survived.
Carter’s dedication to her craft and commitment to maintaining historical accuracy came through in all the clothing featured in the exhibit. Her work has influenced generations and amplifies the importance the role of costume design in a production. Carter won the Oscar for Best Costume Design in 2019 for Black Panther and again in 2021, for the sequel, the first Black woman to do so.
Ruth E. Carter: Afrofuturism in Costume Design is now on display at the Charles E. Wright Museum of African History in Detroit, Michigan, until March 31, 2024. Click here for details. The exhibit was previously showcased at the Museum of Fashion and Film in Atlanta, the Taubman Museum in Roanoke, Virginia, and the Museum of Pop Culture in Seattle.
