Chef Greg’s Soul-N-The Wall
10009 Curtis St.
Detroit
Monday, November 9
I’m sick of the coney dog as Detroit’s signature food.
It’s time to embrace a true contender: the Boogaloo Wonderland sandwich ($12) from Chef Greg’s Soul-N-The Wall.
It’s not as well known as the coney, but when it comes to flavor, it’s a worthy adversary.
Think of it as Detroit’s version of the iconic New York City bodega chopped cheese sandwich, or a Philadelphia hoagie absolutely drenched in delicious, homemade barbecue sauce.
The Boogaloo is deceptively simple — some seasoned ground beef (you can sub chicken, steak, or veggies), caramelized onions, and melted cheese on a toasted 8-inch bun freshly made at Tringali’s Bakery in Warren.
Like the chili on a coney dog, the sauce is the star here, which soaks the whole thing and makes it a messy delight to eat. Every time I’ve gone, I’ve ended up eating this with a fork and knife instead of trying to pick it up and take a bite (good luck if you do).
There’s nothing like this sauce. It’s vinegar-based barbecue for sure with a touch of sweetness and a whole lot of tang. There’s a bit of an Asian flair here, too, with a Sichuan-influenced edge to it thanks to a peppery taste that lingers after your last bite. In some ways, it reminds me of a mouthwatering meatloaf sandwich that’s far from dry.
I bought four of them the other day to give to friends who had never experienced it before. No one could stop eating theirs.
And this certainly isn’t a new craze. The sauce itself dates back to the 1960s, named after a popular funk dance of the era. It was created by Brother’s Bar-B-Que, which had a few locations in Detroit, including where Chef Greg’s Soul-N-the-Wall is now.
Today, Chef Greg’s Soul-N-The Wall is a family affair. Chef Greg Beard Sr. started the restaurant and his son, Greg Beard Jr., helps run it, cooking and taking orders. They’re currently focused on getting the jarred version of their signature sauce made more widely available at local grocery stores.
Getting a Boogaloo sandwich in this setting is part of the appeal. Chef Greg’s Soul-N-The Wall is exactly how it sounds: a tiny, delicious outpost at the intersection of Curtis and Wyoming on the city’s northwest side. If the Boogaloo sandwich isn’t your thing, try the pork chop sandwich or the triple-butter-crust peach cobbler. The menu here is affordable with a hamburger starting at $7. These are Clinton administration prices!
In every city, there’s the local delicacy that gets all the praise. The coney dog deserves it, but it’s hyper-common at any coney island or similar diner across the state.
The Boogaloo sandwich is a true under-the-radar Detroit original available at one place and one place only — Chef Greg’s Soul-N-The Wall.
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