Roasted and Raw
607 14th St.
Oakland
On a beautiful, sunny California autumn afternoon on a corner in almost downtown Oakland, I walked through large plate glass windows that have been vandalized at least once in the year and a half a restaurant has occupied the space, to meet my New Haven-via-Los Angeles high school bud Miles for lunch.
The restaurant, a fully vegan fast casual space called Roasted and Raw, originally opened a few years back on 2nd St. in the Jack London neighborhood by chef Imani Greer, It moved downtown in March of 2022. It is now on 14th in the space formerly occupied by Paris Baguette Cafe.
We shared the spiced black bean burger, which came with a side of yucca fries, a side of mac n cheez, and the kelp noodle pad Thai. Additionally we each got a green juice: his the ginger snap and mine a make-your-own blend that I could have done a slightly better job choosing but nonetheless enjoyed.
The yucca (also spelled yuca, and known alternatively as cassava) fries were the star, though everything was quite good. The fries were deeply golden with a slight crusting of seasoning and thick crispy exterior, with a soft, pillowy white center that melted in my mouth. Served with a smattering of fresh herbs alongside a spicy aioli-esqe dip and the black bean burger, but also sold a la cart, they are not to be missed.
The burger itself was not the strongest pick on my behalf either. It was pleasant and flavorful, but needed the swipe of spicy spread. Miles added to the bun and I found the textures to blend too quickly and easily upon consumption. A durable bean burger is nigh impossible to perfect, but this really didn’t stand up to any pressure at all. The pickle rounds were bright and juicy, with light tang and some sweetness (not to my taste but good), giving more bite to the burger. The obligatory lettuce, tomato, and, given our locale, avocado, were perfunctory but didn’t add much. The avocado, served front and center, was overripe — not so much as to ruin the dish but a strong choice of placement for a non-ideal fruit, imho.
The kelp noodle pad Thai was delicious, drenched in a light-bodied peanut dressing and dotted with fresh veg. There was a good deal of baby kale and slices of radish and cucumber (none of which felt in line with the namesake noodle dish). I found it to be a great peanut‑y salad over a pad Thai dish … but Miles disagreed. Who puts purple cabbage in pad Thai? Not I. But again, a worthy meal and pleasurable eat I will happily return for.
Lastly, we shared a side of the Mac n cheez, an ultra creamy tin of elbow noodles swimming in a near-perfect faux-cheese sauce. It was lightly nutty, but not enough to scream NUT MILK!, with just a hint of the nooch-paprika-garlic powder blend that powers most vegan cheez sauces. Comforting and rib-hugging, and $5 for the side, it will become a cult favorite if it has not already. Not close enough to fool a cheese head, but not trying too hard, which is what keeps it hot.
Roasted and Rawls hours:
Sunday Closed
Monday 11 AM – 6 PM
Tuesday 9 AM – 7:30 PM
Wednesday 9 AM – 7 PM
Thursday 9 AM – 7:30 PM
Friday 11 AM – 6 PM
Saturday 11 AM – 5:30 PM
