360 40th St Oakland
Sometimes good things must be fleeting to be enjoyed fully. Scarcity rarifies, and in turn usually inflates the value, but for a few more Thursdays — today through May 29th — the welcoming aroma of a piping hot bowl of soup at Monster Pho signals the return of the ten dollar meal. Or, as owner Tee Tran, who greeted and seated us last week said, 2014 prices.
Inflation and current immigration policies have put a major damper on his usually steady business. But Tran, no stranger to feeding the community, is taking this time of hardship in stride and choosing to pour his resources into ensuring everyone who needs it can get a warm meal. Nourishment comes in all forms, brothy noodles and heartfelt connections are pretty powerful players.
Along with their human employees, monsters—and robots— populate the bright, friendly, and very green space. Multiple photo opps — including a photo booth, sadly out of commission the day I visited— and the most high-tech skittles distribution system I’ve ever encountered, help keep kids entertained during meals. Tran says keeping customers engaged and excited, always offering something new and different than his competition, is key. I say the bowls are good enough to stand alone, but I’ve no little ones to entertain.
Slightly sweet and deceptively light but rich and complex, the vegetarian broth was good on its own but became true comfort food with the addition of the fresh lemon, chili and hoisin sauces. Crunchy bean sprouts mingled with gentled softened onions, wilted greens, chewy tofu, and toothy broccoli, providing plenty of textural contrast to the soft noodles nestled at the bottom of the bowl.
I slurped most of the liquids up, each spoonful and gulp a tonic chipping gently at my headache, the gloom and barometric pressure of the day, the doom of the political climate. Maybe soup can soothe all woes, if only temporarily.
Monster Pho is peanut allergen free and vegetarian friendly and boasts a full menu of non-pho choices too. Slurp’s up, Wednesday—Sunday 11-8.
