Good Luck Gato
Oakland Restaurant Week
1915 San Pablo Ave.
Oakland
Nestled beside new sister bar Ninth Life, Good Luck Gato’s inviting hand-painted storefront hides below a now familiar corrugated plastic roofing that extends to its covered parklet. A self-proclaimed “Izakaya Cantina,” the small, bar-centric space is graced with high-reaching ceilings and windows to match, making the most of the golden hour as we walked in. The space invoked the airy, minimalistic chukum stuccoed buildings of the Yucatan, complete with rattan lamp shades, all complemented by rich red accents and Japanese textiles.
It was one of the nicer days we’d seen in a while, so my friends and I had opted for an early outdoor reservation, hoping to take advantage of the daylight. Our table’s overhead heater was down for the count, so we were grateful for the remaining sunlight, though also pleasantly surprised by the warm colors and cozy ambiance of the basic structure.
Let me begin as we did, with drinks.
The cocktail menu itself was a highlight, with a range of thoughtfully curated numbers spanning from gin to pisco, from rye to mezcal. The favorite of the evening, the Emerald Zone, is a split-base cocktail, stood out in particular and did not disappoint. An ensemble of nori infused tequila, mezcal, and gentian it was balanced by cooling cucumber, yuzu, and lime, with sesame oil lingering on the tongue. We also shared the Lady Snowbird, a floral, bright and nutty highball, a new-to-us Blue Corn Beer out of Michoacan, funky and slightly bitter in all the best ways, and the Tarantino Dance Floor, a playful and tart sparkling blend of pisco and hibiscus-jalapeño-ume shrub. It was clear that every drink was thoughtfully created to complement the menu, each sip changing on the palate as it went down and all uniquely equipped to pair with accompanying dishes, an especially impressive and creative undertaking considering the fusion of Japanese and Mexican flavors.
Visiting during Restaurant Week offered us several options per course, including dessert, in addition to a concise à la carte menu. By sharing an order of brussel sprouts and opting for two prix fixe meals at $65 each, we managed to sample almost everything on the menu. However, we were somewhat surprised to discover that not every course offered a vegetarian option, leaving us to request a customized version of the Caesar salad, with dressing and boquerones on the side. Certainly not how they intended to serve it, but on us for not checking the menus ahead of time. The brussels made up easily for this gap in our vegetarian’s menu, crisp and not weighed down by their coating of sweet and sour sauce; we finished the plate without hesitation.
The standout of our first course, and the meal overall, came to us in the form of aguachiles. Plump shrimp and creamy avocado delicately balanced in the sweet bright acidity of yuzu, lime, and onion. We thought only that it was deserving of a stronger tortilla chip, or some more robust vessel for such a juicy dish. We added the optional oysters without hesitation and they did not disappoint, delivering a punch of umami with a shiso dashi and tamarind finish, an indulgence well worth the extra price.
Next, the chrysanthemum quesadilla was a personal favorite among the second plates. Bitter greens were accompanied by a vinegary habanero hot sauce and melty cheese, a perfect balance of flavors and textures, though the small serving only allowed for one or two bites each. The tempura veggie fritters carried notes of nostalgia — salty, crispy, oily, and hard to stop eating — a medley of savory mushrooms and asparagus balanced by the sweetness of onion and pepper, reminiscent of childhood orders of tempura vegetables. Our mains, black garlic rice and smoked refried bean accompanied Pork Chop and Al Pastor style King Trumpet mushrooms came next. The spring onion salsa quemada on the chop was most memorable for me, roasted and bright with the perfect level of spice. The sesame crusted portions of mushroom were also a group favorite, providing the tongue a crispy focal point for the dish.
Our desserts, a zesty raspberry sorbet with candied jalapeños and a black sesame chocotaco, balanced each other perfectly, a reminder to eat out only with friends willing to share everything. The chocotaco’s hand-made chocolate-dipped waffle cone and black sesame vanilla gelato felt like an elevated take on a childhood favorite, my absolute favorite kind of sweet.
Service was as swift as it was warm, our server happy to help along the way and always keeping a close eye on our progress throughout the 4 courses. Nothing came too soon or too late, and our table remained uncluttered despite the deluge of dishes; not a small task, especially at a new and casual spot not normally equipped for this type of service. Impressed by Good Luck Gato’s attention to detail on nearly every level I left both thoroughly satiated and excited for my next visit.
